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Vintage 2007

By Allan Meadows Burghound.com, January 2009

 

Philippe Drouhin described the 2007 growing season as one that "began extremely early followed by a very early flowering as well. But unfortunately truly poor weather installed itself in the late spring and lasted all summer, really up until 15 days before the harvest. Even then, the temperatures weren't really all that much warmer but there was a strong "vent du Nord” (North wind) that dried up the rot and concentrated everything, sugars as well as acidities. Still, there was an enormous sorting job to be done and we wound up with 40% less than a normal crop. We waited a few days after the majority of our neighbors and commenced on the 4th of September, bringing in sugars that were surprisingly good at between 12.5 and 13%. The wines seem okay after a normal vinification but we were really quite agreeably surprised by how much they changed before and after the malo, in fact, they may be better than the 2006s.” Drouhin noted that he had used a bit more new wood than usual because of the reduced quantities. He also noted that he finds the ‘07s sufficiently developed that he will probably bottle one month earlier than usual, which is to say January rather than February. As an aside, I fully agree with Drouhin that his ‘07s, when considered across the entire range, are better than their '06 counterparts. For those who may not be familiar with the Drouhin-Laroze wines, the style is traditional in the sense that it is neither old school nor modern with moderate extraction and clean aromatics and I've also noticed a meaningful moderation in the amount of oak influence (which as noted, was not the case in 2007). The wines are worth a look as they sell for relatively reasonable prices, particularly at the grand cru level.

(Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; Bayfield Imports, NY; Berry Bros & Rudd, Bibendum, Justerini & Brooks and Anthony Sarjeant, all of the UK).

 

2007 Morey St. Denis

A pretty mix of red, blue and black pinot fruit nuanced with hints of earth and forest floor merges into round yet precise middle weight flavors that culminate in a moderately edgy finish that may or may not round out. There was quite a bit of gas in this wine so that may be exacerbating the edginess. (85-88)/2011+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin

A more deeply pitched but equally fresh nose of wild red and blue berry aromas with ample amounts of Gevrey style earth is followed by precise, intense and lightly mineral suffused medium-bodied flavors that also have a bit of edginess but here is slightly more modulated. Again, it's not entirely clear that it will round out. (85-88)/2012+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Craipillot”

A deft touch of wood sets off noticeably riper aromas of both red and blue pinot fruit that is also nuanced by plenty of earth and a touch of wet stone that gives way to intensely mineral middle weight flavors that possess fine precision and good if not special depth and length on the moderately firm finish. (87-89)/2013+

 

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Au Closeau”

(from 60+ year old vines). A bit more wood influence is in evidence though not enough to really intrude on the fresh and pretty dark berry fruit aromas that lead to energetic, rich and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess good volume and intensity on the meaty and sappy finish underpinned by mildly rustic tannins. This is not  particularly elegant or refined but there is plenty of wine here. (87-90)/2014+

 

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Clos Prieur”

This is a clear step up in elegance with an airy and cool red berry fruit nose that is both fresh and detailed and this sense of detail continues onto the rich, full and generous flavors that possess good depth if only moderate length. This is pretty and attractive though not profound. (87-90)/2014+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Lavaut St.-Jacques”

(from a .3 ha parcel of vines planted in 1943). This is another small step up in elegance but also in wood influence and ripeness as the red berry fruit aromas also display notes of violets, minerals and a hint of crushed leaves that are in perfect keeping with the rich, fresh and equally mineral-driven flavors that possess real verve on the lovely, understated and linear finish. This is classic Lavaut and a wine that should age well. (88-91)/2015+

 

2007 Chambolle-Musigny

(a mix of 80% Les Baudes and 20% from the villages portion of Les Veroilles). Here the nose displays more wood influence than any of the preceding wines though while certainly noticeable, it's not enough to hide the otherwise complex, ultra elegant and high-toned red pinot fruit aromas that introduce rich, full and mineral suffused mediumbodied and sleekly muscled flavors that possess very firm structure and excellent length on the moderately austere finish. This resembles a smaller-scaled Bonnes Mares, which is not as improbable as it sounds given where the majority of the blend hails from. (89-92)/2015+

 

2007 Chapelle-Chambertin

(from .52 ha parcel). Moderate wood influence frames a more complex if not more refined nose

of red, blue and black pinot fruit that evidences notes of beef jerky, anise and earth, all of which can be found on the round, detailed and very pure flavors underpinned by firm tannins and a stony character, all wrapped in a balanced, long and palate staining finish. Despite the extra size and weight, this is actually not notably superior to the straight Chambolle. (89-92)/2015+

 

2007 Latricières-Chambertin

(from .67 ha parcel of extremely old vines). This too sports moderate wood that stops just

short of fighting for center stage with the otherwise riper and more deeply pitched earth and stone-infused nose of primarily red berry fruit aromas that serve as an elegant and refined introduction to the rich, fresh and beautifully detailed medium full flavors brimming with an almost pungent minerality that culminates in an understated, austere and impressively persistent finish. Lovely stuff that save for the wood is rather Cistercian in style. (90-92)/2015+

 

2007 Bonnes Mares

(almost entirely from a 1.5 ha parcel in terres rouges). An expressive nose of dark berry fruit with

moderate wood spice influence complements rich, full and seriously powerful and well-muscled big-bodied flavors that are robust, concentrated and pure that culminate in a linear and driving finish that both stains and coats the palate. There is just a bit more here compared to the Latricières. This will require at least a decade in the cellar first. (90-93)/2017+

 

2007 Clos de Vougeot

(this and the Latricières are from the oldest vines of the Domaine and this wine comes from a

superbly situated 1 ha parcel of Clos de Vougeot high on the hill, next to Alfred Haegelen's parcel adjoining the wall). An

intensely earthy but extremely fresh nose of ripe dark berry fruit trimmed in noticeable wood slides into surprisingly supple fullbodied but densely concentrated flavors that possess a dusty, serious and detailed mouth feel and in the mode of a classic young Clos de Vougeot, plenty of finishing austerity. This is actually well balanced and impressive but note that it's hardly

forward. (91-93)/2019+

 

2007 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

(from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949). Mild wood spice frames an elegant and

kaleidoscopic nose of high-toned red and black berry fruit aromas liberally laced with natural spices that offer impressive

nuance and excellent complexity that introduces supple, finely detailed and beautifully textured flavors wrapped in a dusty, mineral-infused and austere but not hard finish. This is decidedly backward at present and like the Musigny and Clos de Vougeot will require ample cellar time to really blossom. (91-94)/2019+

 

2007 Musigny

(from a .12 ha parcel). An elegant, pure, reserved, spicy, cool and layered black and blue fruit nose nuanced

by hints of smoke and crushed herb that are also picked up on the mineral-driven and impressively powerful flavors that

possess really lovely intensity, balance and outstanding length. This is perhaps not quite as dense as the Clos de Vougeot but the sense of harmony and underlying sense of class and refinement are better still. In sum, this is a knockout but patience required. (92-94)/2019+

 

By Jancis Robinson

and Julia Harding

January 2009

 

Bonnes Mares 2007

17.5    Drink in 2011 à 2020

A bit denser and more exotic than the Gevrey. Some Succulence - they reversed the order so when tasting it I thought this was an awfully good Clos Vougeot!

 

Clos de Vougeot 2007

17.5 +   Drink in 2014 à 2020

Bone dry and uncompromising but pretty juicy. There is real energy here. Not one of the most eye catching Bonnes Mares in 2007 but serious and should be rewarding eventually. Good persistence.

 

Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2007

17+   Drink 2012 à2020

Lively fruit and very dry on the finish. Serious intent - much less opulent than some vintages from this producer.

 

By Neal Martin

January 2009

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Craipillot”

86 - 88  Drink 2010 à 2018

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. A soft mulberry scented nose with touches of raspberry leaf and mown grass. It lacks a little fruit concentration (...). The palate displays moderate vigour, light and supple with a juicy strawberry/ raspberry centre, leading to a rounded, simple finish.

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er

"Au Closeau”

87-89  Drink in 2010 à 2018

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. This has a simple, but pleasantly charming, brambly nose with red-berried fruits and touch of dried orange peel, Morello aromas becoming more evident in the glass. The palate displays good acidity, some minerality with ripe strawberry and redcurrant notes, (...).

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Clos Prieur”

86 - 88  Drink 2010 à 2018

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. The nose is reductive out of the barrel, although some tart red-berried fruits poke their heads round the corner. The palate is simple with good-acidity, over red-cherry and cranberry-flavoured fruits (...)

 

2007 Chapelle-Chambertin

89 - 91  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. The Chapelle-Chambertin has a straightforward nose of red-berried fruit, a touch of raspberry leaf and colt tea, then a touch of dried apricot with time in the glass. It has a nice grainy texture, good clarity, not particularly complex or with great length, rather pointed on the finish but it displays purity and character.

 

2007 Latricières Chambertin

91 - 93  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. This Latricières has some lithe raspberry, red cherry and loganberry fruit on the nose with touches of dark chocolate and mulberry emerging with time. There is a Musigny-like slant to the wine. The palate displays fine tannins, ripe wild strawberry, Morello and boysenberry flavours with complementary leafy element towards the finish. Very fine.

 

2007 Bonnes Mares

89 - 91  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. This Domaine can make some wonderful Bonnes Mares when it wants to. This has a bright nose of raspberry, redcurrant and cranberry with a touch of chalk in the background. Good definition, with a note of green leaves emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with wild strawberry, redcurrants and red cherries. A little tart at the moment but very fresh and lively on the finish, although it could do with more tension. Twist of lime on the aftertaste. Fine.

 

2007 Clos de Vougeot

90 - 92  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. The Clos de Vougeot has a very fragrant nose with strawberry, rose petals, a touch of hay and iodine.  Complex and engaging. The palate is lively and showing good weight, not unlike a Bonnes Mares in some ways with blueberry and cassis notes coming through. Perhaps there is a tad too much oak at this stage, but the smooth, linear finish is appealing. Good length, nice poise, a joyous wine.

 

2007 Chambertin Clos de Bèze

89 - 91  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. There is some notes of bramble, earth and dried orange peel emerge, with just a hint of jasmine. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, tart raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, a sense of minerality with a nice citrus thread running through from start to finish, with blood orange on the tangy aftertaste. Very good poise. Good potential, but hopefully it will flesh out a bit after bottling.

 

 

2007 Musigny

92 - 94  Drink 2012 à 2025

Tasted at the Domaine in November 2008. There are just two barrels of Musigny this year. It does have a lovely nose of wild strawberries, raspberry, blood orange and tangerine : complex and with great vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent definition, good acidity, very harmonious and building nicely all the time in the glass. Wild strawberry and blood orange again taking centre-stage towards the elegant finish. A commendable Musigny with good ageing potential.


 

Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2010


 

Bonnes Mares 2007 *

Président des Grands Crus de Gevrey-Chambertin, Philippe Drouhin est à l'aise aussi avec ceux de Chambolle. Il exploite cette parcelle établie sur des sols rouges, argileux, ferrugineux et peu profonds, réputés pour donner des vins « corsés et séveux », pour parler à l'ancienne mode.

De fait, son 2007, développe un nez ouvert et vigoureux de fruits mûrs et de boisé, tandis que la bouche se distingue par sa franchise, ses tannins puissants et sa finale dense et longue. Ce millésime est déjà superbe et, après cinq ans de garde, il aura pris toute son ampleur.

 

Les Meilleurs Vins de France 2010

Revue des Vin de France

 

 

Philippe et Christine Drouhin dirigent cette belle et petite propriété, qui possède un impressionnant patrimoine de Vignes avec de belles parcelles sur les célèbres Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bonnes Mares, Clos de Vougeot, Latricières et autres Chapelle Chambertin. La propriété a, depuis quelques années, entièrement repensé les vinifications et les vins ont encore gagnés en couleur, en intensité de constitution et en homogénéité, sans rien perdre de leur raffinement aromatique.

 

Les Vins - Millésime 2007 :

 

Le Gevrey Village est parfumé, avec un fruit bien présent, mais les tannins sont un rien stricts.

Le Clos de Vougeot est ferme et droit, dans un style austère mais avec du fond.

Le Chapelle Chambertin s'avère très fin, sur une matière soyeuse, avec un beau grain et de l'assise en bouche.

Le Chambertin Clos de Bèze se montre le plus complet : fin et racé, persistant même si l'on aimerait un rien de profondeur en plus.

Le Bonnes Mares est le plus charnel de ces trois Grands Crus.

 

v Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2007   17/20

v Chapelle Chambertin 2007

16,5/20

v Clos de Vougeot 2007

16/20

v Gevrey-Chambertin 2007

15/20



Guide

Vins et Santé

2010

 

Le Domaine compte 11,5 ha parmi les plus prestigieuses appellations de la Côte de Nuits qui s'étendent de Gevrey-Chambertin à Vougeot. La parcelle du vin dégusté est située sur le côté Sud du village juste en face des « Mazis-Chambertin ». La surface totale de cette appellation est de 52a35ca en propriété, vinifié sous le nom de ce lieu dit. Il s'agit quasiment d'un monopole pour ce Domaine.

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Au Closeau”

 

Test scientifique :

Ce vin contient :

4 088 mg/L de polyphénols totaux

IPT : 41,7

12O K/ cal par verre de 15cl

 

Avis des Sommeliers :

 

Les reflets bruns viennent enjoliver une robe pourpre intense. Le bouquet dominateur, développe des arômes de baies sauvages noires à l'eau de vie, de bois fraichement travaillé, de cuir et des notes giboyeuses en rétro-olfaction. En bouche, les tanins encore présents sont dociles, la texture d'une incomparable noblesse est gorgée de parfum de Brandy, de crème de cassis, de caviar d'aubergines et de boisé torréfié. Un très très grand vin qui mérite encore un peu de garde.

A déguster sur un rôti de biche sauce chasseur.