MAISON LAROZE DE DROUHIN

The team picked the domaine wines between 1st and 8th September, then followed on with the négociant cuvées (labelled Laroze de Drouhin) until 12th September when the Moulin-à-Vent grapes, a new contract this year, were brought in. There is also a new négociant cuvées of Marsannay Longeroies this year.

I was a little puzzled during the tasting which was from prepared samples rather than direct from barrel. It is not always easy to tell if the samples lacks a little freshness or whether the warmth of the growing season has slightly cooked the fruit. It was not always sure about which way to call it with the Laroze de Drouhin and Drouhin-Laroze samples, so I may have been more severe in my scores than the wines deserve. If the wines freshen up by the time they are bottled, they will merit a better appreciation.

White

2018, Bourgogne Côte d'Or Chardonnay, Laroze de Drouhin

86

From two vignerons in Brochon and Fixin. Fermentation starts in tank and finishes in barrel, bottled in July. Fullish lemon and lime colour, very good acidity, lively, enough weight and some character. Finishes on lemon and lime-blossom. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Moulin-a-Vent, Laroze de Drouhin

85

This new cuvee consists of barrels, picked on 12th September, and vinified as whole bunches. Possibly the picking date was a little late as the fruit lacks freshness and there are tough tannins behind. Nothing the proviso that this was but a single snapshot of a new wine, I have to say that I did not get on with it. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir, Laroze de Drouhin

88

From 2 plots below Chambolle and Morey, given 20% new wood and 30% whole bunch vinification. Fine vibrant purple, with beautiful aromatics, this fills the mouth, offering just right tannins, and a fine long finish. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Fixin, Laroze de Drouhin

88

90% from one plot, en Coton. Fullish purple, offering a heady, rich fruit, certainly ripe and certainly not rustic, this fills out the palate juicily with a dark ripe cherry fruit. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Marsannay Les Longeroies, Laroze de Drouhin

85

Dense purple black with a rather cooked nose. Dense dark fruit with still some good acidity. Stewed raspberries. This was either picked a bit late or else the sample is lacking freshness and not typical of the wine - in which case the judgement is harsh. Tasted: November 2019

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE

The team picked the domaine wines between 1st and 8th September, then followed on with the négociant cuvées (labelled Laroze de Drouhin) until 12th September when the Moulin-à-Vent grapes were brought in. The Domaine wines are between 12.8 and 14% alcohol, with typically 25-30% whole bunch vinification except for Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs and the Clos de Vougeot. Alcoholic fermentation passed off without any major problems in 2018.

I was a little puzzled during the tasting which was from prepared samples rather than direct from barrel. It is not always easy to tell if the samples lacks a little freshness or whether the warmth of the growing season has slightly cooked the fruit. It was not always sure about which way to call it with the Drouhin-Laroze samples, so I may have been more severe in my scores than the wines deserve. If the wines freshen up by the time they are bottled, they will merit a better appreciation.

2018, Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard, Drouhin-Laroze

88                                            

100% whole bunch and 40% new wood. Very deep black purple, with the nose lacking a touch of freshness in this sample. However this works really well on the palate, a sweet bramble jelly approach kept lively by the whole bunch, albeit low acidity. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin "Sans Souffre", Drouhin-Laroze

88                                            

From Clos des Combes and Croix des Champs. The sulphur free idea began in 2017 when they gave the wine a second winter before bottling, but the 2018 was ready earlier and bottled with the white wine in July. 30% whole bunch. Something of a yeast extract note to the nose. Much nicer on the palate though the ripeness is maximal giving a slightly sweet finish with a touch of liquorice. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin "Dix Climats", Drouhin-Laroze

90

Includes a 2ha block of Clos des Combes. Pretty, mid-purple, the nose currently shows a touch of oak but that will integrate without difficulty. Ripe dense fruit, with some darker notes but not overdone, with a good fine-grained tannic structure behind. With a touch of spice behind, this is complete and indeed classy. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot, Drouhin-Laroze

89-93

Dense crimson colour, with a touch of blackcurrant, this is fresher and less ripe than some samples. Caroline Drouhin notes that Craipillot can be light in cooler years, but is more suited to 2018 conditions. The fruit is predominantly raspberry with darker fruit behind, retaining freshness. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau, Drouhin-Laroze

91-93

Planted at the same time as Craipillot, Au Closeau offers a brighter deeper richer purple. This is luxurious but not clumsy, with a little spicy touch, from 50% whole bunch. Works very well here, with a substantial glossy finish. The acidity is not marked but the wine is in balance. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur, Drouhin-Laroze

89-92

30% whole bunch, rich purple, quite a heavy nose, plump purple fruit, some blackberry as well as dark raspberry, perfectly well balanced but maybe needs a fresher finish. Round and silky but without all that much stuffing. Tasting: November 2019

2018, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut-Saint-Jacques, Drouhin-Laroze

89-92

All destemmed. Rich imperial purple, plump fruit on the nose, not quite the freshest, better tension behind, dark blackcurrant. Blackberry and a little dark raspberry, some acidity to finish.         Tasted: November 2019

2018, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

90-94

The holding is in the En la Chapelle sector, just above the little wall. Dense purple black but vibrant in colour and with some energy to the nose. While the fruit is pretty ripe, I don't find it too cooked though it does not have their usual floral style. But it isn't unbalanced, and I think it is very good but not quite typical for them. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

92-96

Half the plot was pulled out after the 2016 harvest. More black than purple with a dense, almost chocolatey nose. Super concentrated, 25% whole bunch as per their Chapelle, but this is a chocolate coated bomb, which almost made me think of a Leroy wine. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Chambolle-Musigny, Drouhin-Laroze

85-89

From Les Baudes and les Véroilles. Rich purple in colour, coulis de framboise, super rich. Over ripe plums too, with a little bit of heat behind. Can still make an attractive wine. A bit of red fruit and acidity behind just saves it. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

90-95

Dense purple black, with a very ripe nose but not quite over the top. Blackberry not mulberry, luscious and sensual, enough to be atypical but will certainly be enjoyed by some. Just keeps enough tension at the back. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

90-94

No whole bunch vinification here. Totally black centre, a touch of meatiness on the nose. Clean on the palate though with dense black fruit, but at sixes and sevens today. I cannot quite see the clarity of finish. Tasted: November 2019

2018, Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

93-97

Dense black purple, the nose is really quite exciting, softly ripe of course with very dark fruit, luxurious in the mouth but the terroir still reasserts itself with a stricter precision. For a wine showing this ripeness of fruit, it has nonetheless managed to retain admirable finesse. Could be a star Tasted: November 2019

2018, Musigny Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze

93-97

100% new wood, two barrels. Incredibly powerful dense purple, this is a majestic beast, with excellent acidity, more red fruit than black. The detail of the bouquet not very evident yet. Ultra-concentrated raspberry, burly but not indiscreet, clearly in need of a lot more elevage, but very promising.Tasted: November 2019