Jasper Morris - Vintage 2020
Picking began on 26th August with particularly low yields, which the domaine attributes to a difficult flowering as well as to the hot dry conditions of the summer. Yields were significantly down even on the short 2019 crop. All the red wines are still in barrel, unracked since after the malolactic when the wines were racked barrel to barrel. The village Gevreys are around 13%, the grands crus 13,5 to 14,5%. In recent years the domaine has also made a barrel of no sulphur Gevrey-Chambertin but the 2020 has already been bottles - and sold out!
White Wine
2020, Bourgogne Cote d'Or Chardonnay, Laroze de Drouhin
86
Two neighbouring suppliers in Brochon and Fixin. Mid lemon yellow, Pleasing softly oaked nose, extra tension on the palate with some greengage and yellow plum a Pleasing if a little anonymous with goog length. Nine months barrel then to bottle in July. Tasted: December 2021
Red Wines
2020, Bourgogne Cote d'Or Pinot Noir, Laroze de Drouhin
87-89
Chambolle and Morey, bright fresh purple, delicious fruit from the start, 30% whole bunch. Racy and delicious fruit with raspberry and strawberry notes, showing the oak a little but no problem with integration. This is delicious. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Fixin En Coton, Laroze de Drouhin
88-89
Rich purple, very little bouquet. Rather richer fruit here, but not overdone on the palate, lush rather than cooked and with good acidity. More sombre red fruit comes up behind. 20% whole bunch vinification.
Tasted: December 2021
2020, Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard, Drouhin-Laroze
90-93
90% whole bunch vinification. Darker purple, the whole bunch effect shows riotously on the nose,
joyously for those such as me who like them. They really lift the dark raspberry fruit, adding some
strawberry notes with a little pepper and
a fine long finish.
Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin "Dix Climats", Drouhin-Laroze
86-88
30% whole bunch vinification for the blended village Gevrey. Crimson purple, but the bouquet is oddly
vegetal. Not really together today with a softer fruit, few tannins. Perhaps the sample is a little tired or
the aftermath of a light reduction? Scored on today's sample. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin "En Combe", Drouhin-Laroze
90-92
En Combes is a big plot with older vines separated out for the first time. 30% whole bunch vinification.
Fine fresh purple with a slight spicy nose on top of raspberry fruit. Plenty of energy here, spicier finish,
and decent acidity. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin "En Champs", Drouhin-Laroze
90-92
Deeper purple, with an interesting mix of different red fruits on the nose, a certain volume and with
class. Greater weight on the palate, fills the mouth, fresh ripe cherry comes up, good tannins, and long
finish. All destemmed. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Chambolle-Musigny, Drouhin-Laroze
87-89
30% whole bunch vinification on a tiny crop coming from 1er Cru Les Baudes (80%) and 20% Véroilles.
Rich deep colour, the fruit is noticeably riper, with sun dried cherries. Fortunately not too hot thereafter
though the sweet style of fruit is verging on cloying. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Chambolle-Musigny Les Lavrottes 1er Cru, Laroze de Drouhin
90-93
A new contract in 2020, which may be released only in magnum format. Darkish purple, with quite a
ripe nose from old vines, but not too cherry like. Some mineral notes to keep it fresh, a little bit of
raspberry. No whole bunch vinification Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau, Drouhin-Laroze
90-93
30% whole bunch vinification shows happily because the fruit is really quite ripe. There is a sweetness
of fruit which stops short of cloying, and the oak currently shows a bit. But this should come together
pleasingly. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot, Drouhin-Laroze
91-94
30% whole bunch vinification. Bright medium depth of purple, pleasing fruit, fresher red berry style,
nicely balanced. Discreet and understated, which I consider to be strong positives, a little bit of pepper
at the finish. Medium bodied and persistent Salivating Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur, Drouhin-Laroze
91-93
Plumper purple with slightly riper fruit. Expansive deeply ripe cherry with some lush raspberry, some
tannins and just enough acidity to maintain the balance. Good length and certainly succulent, a wine
which should deliver good results in the medium term. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut-Saint-Jacques, Drouhin-Laroze
92-94
Destemmed. They think whole bunch vinification on more powerful terroirs leads to austerity. Dark red
fruit, not too lush, some pepper despite the omission of whole bunches. A pleasing succulence, with a
weight of rich red fruit, with great
length. A light chocolate touch does no harm.
Tasted: December 2021
2020, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
93-95
Half has been pulled out and replanted in 2021. Dense purple, quite ripe, plenty of energy though as
well. A dark purple sort of fruit, 30% whole bunch vinification keeps the wine lively while the 80% new
wood currently marks it a bit, but leaves no aggressive wood tannins. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
92-95
All destemmed. Very dense purple, with evident power to the nose, a touch of coffee in this. Rich dark
fruit, on the sumptuous side, perhaps just a stage as it is being racked. Ripe cherry and raspberry fruit
is masking the acidity a bit. A little disjointed today but may easily rally from here. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
93-96
40% whole bunch vinification 80% new wood, and a yield of just 24 hl/ha. Dark dense purple, this is
clearly one of the ripe wines though somewhat saved by the whole bunches which give greater life to
the sundried cherry fruit. Very succulent through the second half of the palate, though at the limit of
ripeness. The whole bunches pull out the length very nicely and it finishes well. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
92-95
No stems. A significant, dense purple black colour. Lush raspberry and sun-dried cherries, the
signature of the vintage. Sturdy and weighty, the tannic structure offers some relief which will help this
wine come together later on in life. Some peaches in the fruit mix too. Tasted: December 2021
2020, Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
94-96
30% whole bunch vinification, and aged in 100% new wood. Dark intense purple. This has the most
interesting nose to date of the grands crus because the least lush. More volume of fruit across the
palate, less lush and more
juicy,
with a precision too. Tannins in balance, with just a hint of phenols at the finish.
Tasted: December 2021
2020, Musigny Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze
93-96
30% whole bunch vinification, and aged in 100% new wood. Very intense fresh purple. Very rich and
ripe, confit of sundried cherries with a light peach sauce. Very succulent with considerable length, not
heady even if a little jammy, but the persistence pulls out very well. It may well be that the Musigny will
refine and reinforce its structure during the rest of the elevage, but for the moment it is a little too
much on the lush side to show its true grandeur. Tasted: December 2021