Vintage 2013 by Allen Meadows
Philippe Drouhin described the 2013 growing season as "an exceptionnally difficult growing season due to the constantly wet weather. Just like 2012 you had to be in your vineyards constantly because if not you simply couldn't stay on top of the various disease pressures. The flowering did not pass well and thus we knew almost from the start that 2013 was not going to be a big vintage. The reduced quantities though were, in a fashion, a blessing in disguise because the bunches weren't compact and thus there was good aeration. Moreover it allowed the vines to fully ripen the fruit which, given the conditions, would never have happened otherwise. We began picking on the 4th of October under somber skies and brought in ripe and reasonably clean fruit. The sorting requirements were highly variable with some parcels needing quite a bit and others almost none. The coll conditions permitted an extended cool maceration period and the fermentations were easy and consistent. As should age well. In fact about the only fault that they have is that there simply aren't more of them. For more offerings from Drouhin-Loaroze, see their operation below called Maison Laroze de Drouhin.
Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, Atherton, CA; Encore Wine Imports, www.encorewineimports.net, Pleasanton, CA, Voix de la Terre, voixdelaterre@gmail.com, Winebow, Inc., www.winebow.com, Montvale, NJ, Fines Wines Melrose Park, IL, Favorite Brand Dallas, TX, Bibendum Wine Ltd, www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Fine&Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk, Davy&Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis&Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum, Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, and Anthony Sarjeant, anthony@anthonysarjeant.co.uk, all UK
2013 - Musigny
(93-95)/2028+ (from a .12 ha parcel). This is also quite restrained with its brooding array of earthy red cherry and plum liqueur aromas that display top notes of violet and spice hints. Here too there is plenty of size, weight and power to the solidly mineral-driven medium-bodied plus flavors that are shaaped by fine tannins that contribute to the refined mouth feel of the very firmly structured and beautifully complex finish. This is also exceptionally promising but definitely for the patient.
2013 - Morey-Saint-Denis
(87-90)/2019+
(From très Girard). There is enough reduction present to rendere the nose difficult to read. By contraste there is excellent freshness and verve to the delicious middle weight flavors that possess fine detail on the lingering, balaced and slightly saline finale. A quality Morey villages.
2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin
(88-91)/2020+
This too is quite firmly reduced. Like the Morey there is good freshness and pep to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by firm and ripe tannins on the sleekly muscular and robust finish that evidences a mild touch of austerity. There is a bit more depth here compared to the Morey and this will need a few years of cellar time to enhance the overall sense of depth.
2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Craipillot"
(89-92)/2021+
Once again strong reduction crushes the fruit on the nose. Not surprisingly the palate impression of the medium weight round and supple flavors is finer than that of the Gevrey villages. There is also slightly better depth on the well-balanced and persistent finish. This should be approachable after only 5 years or so of bottle age yet require up to a decade to reach its full potential.
2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau”
(89-92)/2021+
(from 60+ year old vines). Mild reduction pushes the fruit to the background though it doesseem ripe. There is a lovely sense of verve to the delineated and solidly intense medium weight flavors that possess lovely depth and a bit more Gevrey style earth on the well-balanced, saline and persistent finish. While I suspect that both this and the Craipillot will require about the same amount of time to arrive at their repective peaks, this will probably drink a bit less well in its youth.
2013- Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Clos Prieur”
(90-92)/2021+
Here there is no reductive funk as the very pretty and attractively layered nose of very fresh red pinot fruit that displays added aromatic breadth in the form of pomegranate, cherry and soft earth nuances. There is good energy and lovely detail to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the firm but not really austere, balanced and persistent finish. A classic Clos Prieur of finesse and punch.
2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru « Lavaut-Saint-Jacques »
(91-93)/2023+
(from a 3ha parcel of vines planted in 1943). A moderate dollop of wood toast isn't really enough to materially impede the appreciation of the spicy red and dark currant suffused nose that displays plenty of earth and sauvage characters. The cool and restrained medium-bodied flavors seem to be constructed on a base of pungent minerality before culminating inh an austere, powerfull and wonderfully long finale. Despite the power and punch this is actually a relatively refined version of the appelation though note that it will require at least a decade of cellar time to resolve the firm supporting tannins.
2013 - Chambolle-Musigny
(90-92)/2021+
(a mix of 80% Les Baudes and 20% from the villages portion Les Véroilles). This is quite firmly reduced though again the underlying fruit seems ripe. There is good precision to the lacy but intense flavors that display ample minerality and a sleek muscularity, all wrapped in a firm, dusty and midly austere finish. While technically a villages Chambolle this very definitely boxes at a 1er level.
2013 - Chapelle-Chambertin
(91-93)/2025+
(from a 52 ha parcel in En la Chapelle). Here the wood treatment is more subtle if not invisible on the elgant and admirably pure nose of that features aromas of plum, violet and discreet wisps of spice and earth. There is more volume if less minerality to the medium weight flavors that possess a lush, even opulent mouth feel before terminating in a focused, complex and beautifully balanced finale. Despite the relatively generous mouth feel there are firm tannins underpinning this beauty that will require a few more years of cellar time to resolve.
2013 - Latricières-Chambertin
(91-94)/2025+
(from a .67 ha parcel of extremly old vines ).
This is aromatically more complex if not more elegant than the Chapelle with its array of spiced plum, exotic tea, dark currant and subtle sauvage scents. The restrained and beautifully delineated flavors also seem to be constructed on a base of liquid minerality that adds lift to the very firm, intense, linear and moderately austere finish that delivers outstanding persistence. This too will need at least 12 to 15 years to arrive at its full potential
2013 - Bonnes-Mares
(92-94)/2027+
(from a 1,5 ha parcel that is almost entirely in terres rouges). A deft application of wood frames restrained and distinctly cool aromas of various red berries, herbal tea, earth and a hint of smoked meat. The big, robust and imposing big-bodied flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration that coastes the mouth and buffers the firm, dusty and serious, long and moderately austere finish. Patience will definitely be required.
2013 - Clos de Vougeot
(92-94)/2027+
(from a superbly situated 1 ha parcel high on the hill). A pungent nose is composed of reductive aromas and oak toast. There is excellent intensity to the big-bodied flavors that are underpinned by phenolically mature tannins and an abundance of dry extract that serves not only to buffer the firm strucyure but also to imprt a velvety mouth feel to the serious, long and moderately austere finish. Patience will definitely be required.
2013 - Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
(93-95)/2028+
(from a parcel of 1,5 ha of vines planted in 1949). A ripe but brooding nose features aromas of spiced black raspberry, red currant and floral notes. The powerful, concentrated and distincly earthly broad-shouldered flavors possess plenty of muscle as the dense and firm mouth coating tannins will require at least 15 years to resolve. I very much like this very rich effort as it's a Bèze of imposing size and weight along with explosive length yet it retains a fine sense of harmony and balance. Once again, note well though that patience is necessary.
Maison Laroze de Drouhin
Philippe Drouhin's daughter Caroline has begun a négociant operation called Laroze de Drouhin. This is obviously a play on words to suggest The Rose of Drouhin. She buys in fruit rather than must and her first vintage was 2007. Please see the domaine summary above for general vintage comments. (Justerin & Brooks, www.justerini.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, and Anthony Sarjeant, anthony@anthonysarjeant.co.uk, all UK).
2013 - Bourgogne
86-88/2017+
Reduction flattens the nose though there is good freshness and plenty of punch to the nicely detailed middle weight flavors that possess a robust mouth feel before culminating in a delicious if midly rustic finish. I like the frank character and ther is plenty of volume to this quality effort that is fashioned in a firm and build-to-age style.
2013 - Nuits St Georges « La Charmotte »
87-89/2019+
An intensely earthy and sauvage nose is comprised mostly by red and dark currant aromas. There is an unusually fine palate impression to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess a good sense of volume on the saline, structured and midly austere finish. This is very Nuits in style but not especially rustic.
2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin
88-91/2020+
Reduction once again dominates the nose. I like the lovely sense of vitality to the detailed and mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess fine intensity on the delicious and solidly complex finale. This delivers very good length though there is a touch of youthful austerity present that will require a few years of bottle age to dissipate.
2013 - Charmes-Chambertin
90-92/2021+
(from Charmes proper). Noticeable wood sets off the notably ripe but very fresh aromas that mix various red berry fruit scents with notes of newly turned earth, underbrush and a hint of anise. The supple, round and quite generously proportioned middle weight plus flavors possess good detail on the firm, dusty and solidly persistent finale. This is certainly a quality effort and well-made but it lacks the depth of a first-rate example, at least at present.
2013 - Mazoyères-Chambertin
90-93/2025+
Here the brooding nose is similar to that of the Charmes save for the fruit profile being slightly more deeply pitched while including a note of plum as well. There is excellent richness along with a bit more size, weight and power to the medium weight plus flavors that exhibit fine persistence on the robust, rustic and midly austere finish. Note that this is makedly more structured and will require several more years of cellaring first.