TIM ATKIN Burgundy 2015 Special Report

97  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru   

(£1050/12 Go, J&B, HHC)

The Drouhins are the third biggest landholders in Bonnes Mares, after De Vogüé and Christophe Roumier, with 1,5 hectares. This is at the structured end of stylistic scale, with 40% whole bunches adding spice and extra backbone. Smoky, dense and complex, with finely judged tannins, this is a superb expression of the Grand Cru. 2025-35

97  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

(£860/12 HHC, J&B)

Latricières is the coolest Grand Cru site in Gevrey, affected by breezes from the combe and the early shadows of the forest, and it shows in the wine. Retaining good acidity and zip in the warm 2015 vintage, this is subtle, refined and saline with a mineral frisson. 2025-35

96  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

(£1200/12 Je, Go, J&B, H2)

More closed and focused than the 2014 was at this stage, this comes from two parcels totalling 1,5 hectares and sees around 15% whole bunches. It's a muscular, concentrated wine with notes of tobacco leaf, damson and rasberry and a patina of vanilla oak. 2025-35

96  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

(£420/6 Go, J&B, H2)

The most floral and refined of the Drouhins'mouth-watering line up of Grands Crus, this is another impressive bottling from a domaine that is improving with every vintage. Zesty, balanced and aromatic, showing flavours of black cherry, plum and tangerine and good underlying grip. 2022-30

95  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut-Saint-Jacques

(£460/12 J&B, H2)

The Drouhin's parcel is in the middle of this cool, elegant Premier Cru and is a classic expression of the site. Minerally, crunchy and refreshing, with a backdrop of serious tannins, stylish aromatic oak and a core of juicy, tangy blackberry fruit. 2024-30

94  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

(£920-995/12 J&B, H2)

« Like everyone else, I'm in the best bit of the Clos », jokes Philippe Drouhin, but he really is. This is a rich, plus, dense expression of the terrroir, with 4o% whole bunches and 80% new oak. Thick and concentrated, with dark bramble and blueberry fruit, it's a wine to age. 2026-35

94  Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Au Closeau

(£470/12 J&B, HHC)

Au Closeau is a Drouhin-Laroze monopoly on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of Gevrey located just below Mazis-Chambertin. It's a glossy, perfumed, eminently drinkable red showing the stylish oak integration that's part of the new approach at the domaine. Rich, exotic, yet underpinned by acidity and tannins. 2022-29