Millésime 2021

VINOUS Antonio Galloni

Caroline Drouhin greets me at the estate's winery in the heart of Gevrey Village, replete with a newly-built tasting room and offices. "We had some hail on 9 June in the north of Gevrey [in Lavaut Saint-Jacques], and En Champs suffered some damage, "she tells me. "But the real damage came from the rain during the storm. The torrent of water made the wall collapse." The team picked from 20 September, though the secateurs were sheathed almost immediately as the heavens opened. They restarted the following day, and the must underwent a cool maceration. "We were a little worried at first, but I think the wines came out good. Now the job is to transfer this energy into bottle."

As I have reported in previous articles, the style of Drouhin-Laroze's wines is entirely different from those of Drouhin's father, Philippe, which tended to be a little over-oaked. The change in style is perhaps not quite as 180° as Domaine Dugat's, but it's not far off. Given the growing season, this is a commendable portfolio, some of the grander cuvées maybe just missing some substance, though fresh and terroir-driven. They really excel with the Clos de Vougeot and a splendid Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, though keep your eyes peeled for a very fine Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur and an over-performing Craipillot

From Servants of the Seasons : Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023) by Neal Martin

By Neal Martin

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats            (87-89)

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats is matured with 15% whole bunches, less than before, with 30% new oak. This is fragrant and alluring on the nose, well-defined with subtle peony and rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly confit-like red fruit with a light but sweet finish. Enjoy this over the next decade.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats            (87-89)

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats is matured with 15% whole bunches, less than before, with 30% new oak. This is fragrant and alluring on the nose, well-defined with subtle peony and rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly confit-like red fruit with a light but sweet finish. Enjoy this over the next decade.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Combe         (85-87)

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2024 - 2029

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Combe comes from a parcel in the middle of the village that has been bottled for the first time. With 15% whole bunches, it has a smear of dark chocolate on the nose that slightly obscures the terroir expression at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, but the 30% new oak just feels a bit excessive on the finish

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs

Color - Red

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs, which was acutely affected by the torrential storm in June, was showing quite a bit of reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, a little rigid at the moment with a closed finish. I will defer judgement on this for now.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Craipillot 1er Cru         (91-93)

Color - Red

Drinking Window : 2024 - 2040

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs, which was acutely affected by the torrential storm in June, was showing quite a bit of reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, a little rigid at the moment with a closed finish. I will defer judgement on this for now.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau 1er Cru

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2024 - 2034

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau 1er Cru underwent some green harvest to improve the grape maturity. It has a light but focused nose - a mélange of red and black fruit with touches of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced with nicely judged acidity. Modest length, this is a well-crafted Gevrey for more early drinking

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru (92-94)

Color - Red

Drinking window - 2025-2040

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru is blended with 60% new oak and 15% whole bunches. This was showing some reduction on the nose though there seems to be ample fruit here that will come out after racking. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and winsome, pure red berry fruit and that essence of Pinoté on the finish. Excellent.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-Saint-Jacques

1er Cru                     (89-91)

Color - Red

Drinking window - 2024-2038

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed. It has a fresh, pure bouquet with brambly red fruit, forest floor and light cedar aromas. The oak here (60% new) is nicely

integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a sorbet-fresh entry. Touches of blood orange and marmalade infuse the red fruit, but it just lacks a bit of persistence on the finish.

2021 Chambolle-Musigny                     (90-92)

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2024 - 2036

Neal Martin, November 2022

With mainly fruit from Les Baudes, the 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Village has a light and airy bouquet that feels well-defined. The 40% new oak is well integrated. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, taut and fresh with an elegant and pure finish. Delightful, though only 560 bottles produced.

2021 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand cru       (90-92)   Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2025 - 2039

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is matured in 75% new oak. It has a clean, quite pure bouquet a little impeded by the oak at the moment, though it is nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, lightly spiced, moderate depth with a touch of white pepper on the finish. Fine, but earlier drinking than some others from the appellation.

2021 Latricières-Chambertin Grand cru       (91-93)   Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2026 - 2042

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, crushed stone and light orange blossom scents. Very elegant. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, light bodied yet with a little more edginess and energy than the Chapelle- Chambertin. Give it 3-5 years in bottle.

2021 Clos de Vougeot

Grand cru     (93-95)  

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2025 - 2048

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a lively bouquet with quite expressive red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit laced with graphite and light pain d'épices aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and quite vibrant, a dash of white pepper with a tensile finish. This is very appealing and should age well in bottle.

2021 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

Grand cru     (94-96)  

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2025 - 2050

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is matured with 20% whole bunches in 80% new oak. Dark berry fruit, bay leaf, Earl Grey and sous-bois unfold on the nose though remain understated. It does not wish to show off. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, beautifully balanced, quite precise with impressive mineralité, especially on the finish. This has real pedigree.

2021 Musigny     (93-95)

Grand cru          

Color - Red

Drinking Window - 2025 - 2047

Neal Martin, November 2022

The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru comprises one barrel, moved from a new to a used one after racking as they felt the oak influence was too strong. That was a clever decision as the oak is deftly interwoven on the nose and allowing the noble terroir to come through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very harmonious with touches of orange rind and cedar towards the finish. Very fine, though the Clos-de-Bèze might be the long distance runner.