DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE

Philippe Drouhin's children, Caroline and Nicolas, now both work at the domaine full-time and are increasingly assuming full responsibility for the wines. I met this trip with Caroline, who described the 2019 vintage as one where "quantities were down from 2018 but the quality is perhaps even better. We picked from the 16th to the 22nd of September and the fruit was pretty much spotless with very little sorting necessary.

 I used roughly 25 to 30% whole clusters for most wines during the vinifications though some had none and a few had 50% and the Très Girard had 100%. Otherwise, there isn't much to report as we had no problems and the wines are coming along nicely as they seem to get better by the month. » See also the wines from Maison Laroze de Drouhin below. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, CA, Terlato Wines International, IL, USA; The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, FINE+RARE Wines Ltd, www.frw.co.uk, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Cru World Wine, www.uk.cruworldwine.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Anthony Sarjeant, anthony@anthonysarjeant.co.uk and Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com, all UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong; Domaine Wine Cellars, www.domaine.com.tw, Taiwan).

2019 - Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard

« Très Girard »

(87-89)/2025+

(from a .18 ha parcel planted in 1946; vinified with 100% whole clusters). An overtly floral and spice-inflected nose reveals mostly dark berry fruit aromas that are trimmed in discreet oak. The sleek and nicely intense middle weight flavors possess both good detail and focus on the sneaky long and delicious finale. This has enough structure to suggest 5 to 8 years of aging potential though it could also be enjoyed young.

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin

"En Champs"

(88-91)/2025+

A brooding and more densely fruited nose is comprised mostly by notes of backed plum, black cherry and plenty of earth influence. There is excellent punch to the well-detailed middle weight flavors that are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the notably more complex and persistent finish.

2019- Gevrey-Chambertin

« Sans Soufre »

(86-88)/2022+

(from Croix de Champs; 50% whole clusters, one barrel made). A mildly funky nose but not so much as to completely mask the early and sauvage suffused dark berry fruit nose. The rich, round and quite supple flavors are caressing and surprisingly forward before concluding in a rustic finale. The nose will probably clean up but with no sulfur wines, one never knows for sure.

2019 - Gevrey-Chambertin

« Dix Climats »

(87-89)/2024+

("Dix Climats" means 10 vineyards). A background trace of reduction isn't enough to completely overshadow the aromas of black pinot fruit, plum liqueur and humus. The sleeker and most vibrant flavors are also relatively forward though there is enough structure to suggest that 4 to 6 years should see this at its peak.

2019 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

"Craipillot"

(89-91)/2025+

(from a parcel measuring .26 ha planted in 1943 and 1953; vinified with 25% whole clusters). A mentholated top note can be found on the piqueur-like aromas of plum, black pinot and soft hints of earth and violet. The succulent, round and delicious flavors are not especially concentrated, though neither are they dilute, while displaying enough depth and persistence to be interesting on the mildly austere finale.

2019 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru

« Au Closeau »

(89-91)/2024+

(Drouhin is only producer of this tiny .53ha vineyard and owns 83% of it, or .44ha; from vines planted in 1943; vinified with 25% whole clusters). An expressive and overtly floral nose speaks of both red and dark currant along with touch of earth and humus. Much like the craipillot, this is not particularly dense though I like both the sense of lift and texture to the delicious, refreshing and solidly persistent finish. This should drink well young.

2018 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

« Clos Prieur »

(89-92)/2025+

(from a parcel of .30 ha that was planted in 1954 though a section was replanted in 2003; vinified with 25% whole clusters). More prominent wood frames the liqueur-like aromas of cassis and spice that are also relatively floral I character. The is better density to the slightly sleeker medium-bodied flavors that possess lovely detail on the lightly mineral suffused finish.

2019 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1 er Cru

« Lavaut-Saint-Jacques »

(90-92)/2029+

(from a .3 ha parcel of vines planted in 1943). More discreet though by no means imperceptible wood sets off the cool black berry, sauvage and violet-scented nose. There is better volume to the more muscular and intense flavors that possess very good size and weight. This ripe but refreshing effort is a relatively generously proportioned LSJ that should repay a decade plus of cellaring.

2019 - Chambolle-Musigny

(89-91)/2025+

(a mix of parcels of .18 ha in Les Baudes and .04 ha from the villages portion of Les Véroilles; vinified with 25% whole clusters). Here too there is reduction and this case it's enough to mask the underlying fruit. By contrast there is excellent freshness and vibrancy to the medium-bodied and tautly muscular flavors that possess a subtle minerality on the lingering finish that could use more depth. Still, this is both pretty and promising.

2019- Chapelle-Chambertin

Grand Cru

(90-92)/2029+

(from a .52 ha parcel in En La Chapelle; vinified with 25% whole clusters). A restained but ripe nose offers up notes of various dark berries, rose petal and anise nuances, all of which is trimmed in a deft touch of wood. The caressing and quite rounded middle weight plus flavors possess good volume but not the depth I'm used to seeing from this succulent wine on the otherwise nicely persistent finish.

2019- Latricières-Chambertin

Grand Cru

(89-92)/2029+

from a .67 ha parcel of extremely old vines; vinified with 25% whole clusters). Once again there is a plenitude of floral nuances to the aromas of both red and dark cherry, pungent earth and a similar dollop of wood. There id unusually good richness for Latricières if perhaps less minerality non the youthfully austere bitter cherry pit inflected finish that, like the Chapelle, isn't especially complex.

2019 - Bonnes Mares

Grand Cru

(90-93)/2031+

(from a 1.5 ha parcel that is almost entirely in the terres rouges section; vinified with 25% whole clusters). An even more floral-suffused nose displays an array of poached plum, black cherry liqueur, earth and moderate wood influence. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy if not the same mid-palate density to the medium-bodied flavors that deliver excellent length and better depth on the balanced finale.

2019- Clos de Vougeot

Grand Cru

(90-93)-2031+

(from a superbly situated 1 ha parcel high on the hill). More subdued oak more easily allows the aromas spice, pungent earth and dark currant to be appreciated. The sleek, vibrant and attractively textured medium weight flavors exhibit solid complexity and sneaky good length on the youthfully austere and mildly rustic finale.

2019- Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

Grand Cru

(91-93)/2034+

(from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949; vinified with 30% whole clusters). An exuberantly spicy nose is composed by notes of cassis, baked plum ans violet. There is fine richness with more size, weight and evident power to the succulent, sleek and saline flavors that flash fine depth and persistence on the quite firmly structured finale. Good development potential here.

2019- Musigny

Grand Cru

(91-94)/2034+

(from a .12 ha parcel; vinified with 30% whole clusters). A brooding and deeply pitched nose is comprised almost exclusively of cassis, plum, sandalwood and spice aromas. There is even better volume and richness to the velvet-textured middle weight plus flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality while delivering excellent length on the moderately austere and built-to-age finish. This too should reward extended cellaring.

LAROZE DE DROUHIN

Philippe Drouhin's daughter Caroline directs this small négociant operation called Laroze de Drouhin. This is obviously a play on words to suggest The Rose of Drouhin. She buys in fruit rather than must and her first vintage was 2007. Please see the domaine summary above for general vintage comments. (Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, and Anthony Sarjeant, anthony@anthonysarjeant.co.uk, all UK).

2019 - Bourgogne Pinot Noir

« Cote d'Or »

86-88/2022+

(vinified with ~30% whole clusters). A ripe and pretty nose features notes of violet, plum and earth nuances that are picked up by the nicely detailed and vibrant flavors that conclude in a lingering and slightly rustic finale. This delicious effort should drink well shortly after release.

2019 - Fixin

87-90/2024+

(80% from En Coton; vinified with ~30% whole clusters). A discreet dollop of wood sets off riper yet still cool aromas of plum liqueur, cassis and newly turned earth. The succulent and rounded medium weight flavors possess good volume that carries over to the refreshing finish. This isn't refined but it is attractive for its level.